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Traditional embroideries of india Download Now Download Download to read offline. Agrotech technical textile. Banana fiber reinforced composite material. Agro based industries. Ecosoaps and detergents. Objective testing. Applications of enzymes in textiles. Related Books Free with a 30 day trial from Scribd. Dry: A Memoir Augusten Burroughs. Related Audiobooks Free with a 30 day trial from Scribd. Empath Up! Soltan Chemmanur. Aakriti Bauddha. Nidhi Patel. Dishita Singh.
Niharika As. Rehan Ali. Tiger Joshi. Nidhi Singh. Soniya Soniya. Shreya Golchha. Show More. Views Total views. Actions Shares. No notes for slide. Traditional embroideries of india 1. Introduction Embroidery is the art of using stitches as a decorative feature in their own right by embellishing fabric or other material with design stitches in strands of threads or yarns using a needle. It has quite become the variation of both short and long stitch.
More often, they are available in some shades of white or some similar light shade. Several times, pastel colors are even used. The true Indian customer does set a great store displaying the same fitness on quite both sides for making even the wrong side vary from right. The displayed pieces have embroidered borders using bands of marching soldiers and separate panels showing horse riders.
Kashmiri motifs It is done by the professional tracers called Naquashband Nakshaband following the traditional technique of tracing. The fabric is spread on a flat surface 2. The perforated design sheet is placed over the fabric 3.
The charcoal or chalk powder is rubbed over it, which leaves the impression over the fabric 4. To make the tracings durable, gum arabic is added to the powder 5. The traced design is outlined with a pen called Kalam Stitches Used The stitches are open chain, open stem, couching, fly, buttonhole and herringbone stitch locally known as Kashmiri stitch. Kashmir also produces two very famous works one is called Gabha, a unique type of floor covering and another is Namda, a special work done on carpets.
It is also called Crewel embroidery. It is done with the thread as that fabric material used in the base. This results in the interweaving that produces a fine texture in the fabric. Handow to make household articles around It is done with the woollen thread called Ear, with whip stitch by counting the threads Namda However now it is been done on various types of fabrics like cotton, linen nylon, georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics.
Apart from wearable garments it is also done on various other things like curtains, bed sheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers. But the thread used for the embroidery is generally white. It is a very delicate work of Lucknow. It is now seen in Bhopal, Gaya, Calcutta, Allahabad and Varanasi but Lucknow is the great modern centre where work of a quite remarkable beauty and distinction is carried out.
The designs were said to have been evolved by herself. White on white White on coloured and coloured on coloured The Satin stitch 2. The Stem stitch 3. The Back stitch 4. The Herring bone stitch 5. The Button hole stitch. Stitches used 1 2 3 4 5 Taipchi 2. Khatawa 3. Bukhia, 4. Murri 5. Phanda 6. It is an exceedingly intricate kind of applique work. The thread is chiefly below the cloth. Compact masses of thread are then worked on the wrong side so that the design appears opaque.
Murri means rice shape. Murri is worked in the centre of the flowers. Basic motifs of chikankari It is commercialized and had gained the foreign market. Chiffon dress material: Yellow and white threads on black chiffon. Shadow work on blue Kairi motif Exquisite chikan work done on red pure chiffon kurti.
It includes phanda along with murri and shadow work. Gala buti : Only the neck is adorned with chikankari with small butis all over the suit. Zari work Zari embroidery is the use of thin gold or silver thread for embroidery work. Surat and Varanasi are major centers for making the metal thread which is also known as kalabathi. Zari embroidery is known as Zardozi. For long it remained a cherished item by traders who exported it to major countries of the world during the middle ages.
The popular styles practices all over India. This work is chiefly done by Muslim artisans in Lucknow. In Gota Kinari work , which is a specialty of Jaipur, figures of birds ,animals ,humans,etc are cutout of the Gota and attached to the cloth. The cut outs are then encased in wires of silver and gold. Zardosi with Sitara and Salma Zardosi with Dabka It is used to embellish wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes.
The old teach the young and the skill continues from generation to generation. Kamdani : This is a lighter needlework which is done on lighter material like scarves, veils, and caps. Ordinary thread is used and the wire is pressed down with the stitching producing a satin-stitch effect. The effect produced is glittering and is called hazara butti thousand lights. Meena Work : This is thus called due to its resemblance with enamel work.
The embroidery is done with gold and stones. Kataoki Bel : This is a border pattern made of stiff canvas and the whole surface is filled with sequin edging. A variation of this border technique is lace made on net and filled with zari stitches and spangles.
Makaish : This is one of the oldest styles and is done with silver wire or badla. The wire itself serves as a needle, piercing the material to complete the stitches. A variety of designs are produced in this manner. Karchobi work :Surat is famous for Karchobi work. There embroideries are known by different names based on the material being used for the embroidery Gota Work : The woven gold border is cut into various shapes to create a variety of textures in the patterns.
In Jaipur the border of the material or sari is cut into shapes of birds, animals, and human figures, attached to the cloth, and covered with wires of silver and gold. It is surrounded by coloured silks. The work resembles enameling.
Kinari Work : A small variation of zari is Kinari work, where the embellishments are done only at the edges in the form of tassels. This is done mainly by men and women of the Muslim community.
Fabric Used The copper wire spirals are comparatively wider apart. This is not made now unless specially ordered. Threa ds It is tied to the surface and has shine and polish. Here the stitches are counted and the design is made. Some jali designs are Chandi ki jali, Chakle wali jali,Suiyo wali jali. Styles Kasuti is hand work of cotton thread, in Karnataka language. This embroidery is prepared by women for their personal use. In the olden days it was a custom that the bride had to possess a black silk sari, called chandrakali sari with Kasuti work on it.
As a matter of fact traditionally this embroidery is done on saris and blouses. The five garments on which Kasuti was done were kunchi bonnet and cape combined , lenga skirt , seragu pallav of a sari , kusuba bodice and kulai bonnet.
Material used- The material on which the Kasuti embroidery was done earlier was mostly khans used as blouse pieces and Irkal sarees. Today Kasuti embroidery is done on any type of fabric. Animal motifs used are the sacred bull Nandi , the elephant and the deer.
They are followed by motifs of diminishing sizes like flowers, birds, animals and geometrical patterns. The motifs have to be completed as the stitching line comes back to fill in the blank spaces. In such cases the wrong and right sides are like. Gavanti: The Gavanti is double running stitch and is commonest among all the other stitches used in Kasuti embroidery.
Muragi or Murgi: This means twisted. It is a variation of holbein stitch. This can be made vertically, horizontally, or diagonally. The diagonal pattern, with a ladder like appearance, is used most popularly. Muragi is also used to fill up patterns. This stitch is reversible and shows up the same on the front and reverse of the fabric.
Negi: The word negi originates from the Kannada word neg meaning to weave. It is the typical pattern darning stitch. It uses running stitch to make patterns and gives a weaved effect. This stitch is reversible, but they tend to be like mirror images of each other. Menthi: This means fenugreek Menthi is a cross stitch and is used to cover up the back ground of the design. It is done by counting the warp and the weft threads. It uses the typical cross stitch to fill in the patterns or motifs.
This stitch is not reversible. Kasuti embroidery depicting domestic and household articles and some temple related motifs Chamba rumals are very picturesque and are small head shawls. The second style was a folk style in which the women embroidered their cholis and rumals scarves using their own patterns and designs. They had the use of the trained miniature artist who would draw the theme of the rumal in charcoal and provide guiding colour schemes.
These women drew the figures of their own creation and produced the images of their deity on the material as visualized by them. The infinite shades and tints of bright, brilliant and contrasting colours were used.
Most commonly used colours are red, yellow, green, blue, crimson and purple. Threads and colours used The stitch was carried forwards and backwards alternately and was done simultaneously on both sides of the cloth so a Chamba rumal does not have a right or wrong side.
Gujjar women used darning, sometimes even herringbone and satin stitches Stitches Used The centre of the field is usually filled with human figures in action- Krishna and Radha dancing, elephant riders e.
The border designs are generally floral. Both nectar and poison were the products of Samudra Manthana. However, many more things emerged out of the ocean due to the vigorous elaborate churning. And this scene of Samudra Manthana has been taken as a motif for embroidery of rumal and wall hanging. Rukmini Harana- The elopement of Rukmini and her marriage is the zist of the theme. The most commonly found ones are the battle of Kurukshetra and exile of the Pandavas.
The Pahari painters were greatly influenced by the Vaishnavas, during eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and adopted Ragmala Sangeet Mala theme. Ashta means eight, i.
Mela is a very famous festival of Chamba, where the people sacrifice Minja in the river Ravi, to drive away the evil sprits and pray for their prosperity. However, it has the resemblance of Phulkari of Punjab Major themes used Village scene Court scene Motives inspire from nature Not only are the easiest to build, but they are also the easiest to maintain for new beekeepers.
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